By John C. Fech
Two of the most critical influences in terms of landscape plant success in the sports turf or campus landscape are the separation of turf and ornamentals and getting new plants off to a good start. Unfortunately, sports field managers often find themselves caring for plants that are co-mingled or co-located with mowed turf. Since these two groups of plants have very different needs in terms of maintenance requirements, whatever you do to one ends up causing damage and compromising the health of the other. The best solution is to physically separate them from the start or redesign the space to allow for customized management practices. Proper year-one management techniques further enhance the success of overall grounds management.
Methods of separating turf and ornamentals
An examination of the sports turf landscape is the first step. For spaces that surround the field(s), identify non-turf plants that have been placed in the middle of turfgrass installations. Since turf is cared for very differently than ornamentals – mowing, aerification, topdressing, pest control techniques and higher inputs of water and fertilizer (usually) – a prudent action step is to redesign these spaces to exclude ornamentals from the turf or to replace the turf with groundcovers or mulch. In addition to different maintenance techniques, removal of trees often results in reduced shade stress and water competition for the remaining turf plants.
For areas that have not yet been established, work with a landscape designer to create areas that separate turf and ornamentals right from the start. Initial separation minimizes conflicts such as bark injury from string trimmers and mowers, over/under watering and herbicide injury. In addition to keeping each group of plants healthier than when co-located, a significant budgetary savings will result as well.
Right plant, right place
Once separated, either through renovation or initial design, choosing plants that are well adapted to the specific site is a foundational step. Right plant, right place (RPRP) has many components:
- Plant type – The best implementation of RPRP starts with a wide funnel approach, with phrases such as “evergreen shrub,” “large shade tree,” “low deciduous groundcover” and “sunny perennial.” This method provides structure, but leaves the selection process open to many options. Specific choices can be made as selection develops.
- Sun and shade preference – Plants may grow best in full sun, half sun, filtered sun, part shade or full shade. Plants that are chosen and installed in locations that are contrary to their preference usually struggle to establish and thrive. Fortunately, sun requirement is commonly noted on the plant care tag or easily found on local university or nearby botanic garden web sites.
- Site limitations – Soil characteristics, adequate space for rooting, prevailing winds, slope and the scale of nearby buildings or other plantings create certain limitations on the planting area. These all need to be considered when choosing specific plants.
- Purpose – The functional aspects of ornamentals are often overlooked, characterizing them as “therefore” plants. To have success in the sports turf and/or campus landscape, the question of purpose (a.k.a., what’s it there for?) must be answered. If the answer is not easily answered or obvious at first or second glance, it’s important to consult with the original designer of the space to determine function or purpose.
- Eventual size and shape – Directly related to purpose, desired size and shape are often omitted from the selection process. For example, if the purpose of the plant is to provide shade for a small picnic area or for bleachers, then a hedge planting of medium-sized shrubs isn’t going to work; a medium-sized deciduous tree is a good fit. Likewise, if the purpose is to prevent erosion on a hillside, a spreading evergreen shrub often works well.
- Maintenance level – In these days of restricted water availability and pressure to reduce maintenance budgets, plants should always be chosen with the amount of care required in mind. Plants that can be allowed to grow to their natural height without lots of pruning or shearing are less expensive to maintain. In addition, ornamentals that are at least somewhat drought tolerant and well adapted require that the soil be kept slightly moist – not soggy or dry. Again, plant care tag instructions provide this important information.
Off to a good start
Soil modification (or lack thereof) and following good planting procedure are two of the most important considerations in successful establishment. The size and shape of the planting hole is critical. In fact, it’s best to think of it as a “planting area” rather than a “hole.” Digging and removing native soil three times as wide as the root mass and no deeper is the goal. This will allow the roots to expand laterally with ease and not sink downward into the soil profile. Comparing the width/depth of the area to the root mass using a shovel is a good technique.
In general, the woodier the plant, the less desirable it is to modify the planting hole/area. When a tree or shrub is planted, it’s important to avoid the temptation to mix “kindness materials” such as compost, peat moss and sand into the backfill soil that is placed around the roots. Sure, the roots will be able to grow well into this highly modified space during the first few weeks after planting; but over the first two to three years, they will preferentially grow there, and not outward into the landscape where they need to be to adequately support the tree with structural strength and the capacity to absorb water and nutrients. Instead, they will circle around the original root ball and force the tree to develop into a weak specimen. Soil taken out of the ground to make the planting area should be simply loosened, then used to backfill around the roots.
Year 1 care
Once trees and shrubs – and even groundcovers and perennials – are in the ground, ensure good establishment by thoroughly soaking them with enough water to fill the air spaces. After the initial watering, it’s wise to keep “too much of a good thing” in mind and use the “moist, not soggy or dry” management technique. Checking for soil moisture with a screwdriver will help monitor the water content at any given time.
After soaking, covering the roots with a 2-inch layer of an organic mulch such as wood chips or pine needles will suppress weed growth, eliminate the need to string trim around the trunk, and keep the roots moist. In windswept areas, loosely staking trees will prevent them from being uprooted. Canvas, rubber and linen stakes are especially good in that they will support the tree without damaging the bark as wire can, even if tempered with a garden hose.
Defects such as co-dominant leaders should be corrected in the first year after planting. If left to develop without removing one of the stems, severe injury to the tree will develop as each will increase in width/girth. As they do, the conductive vessels of each will begin to become compressed, dramatically decreasing the movement of water and nutrients throughout the tree. In addition, the area where the “double leader” initially formed becomes a structural weak point in the tree canopy, likely to split and cause the tree to fail.
Regular scouting is an important part of caring for a new ornamental in the first year after planting. Assigning a crew member to routinely inspect the new tree, shrub, groundcover or flower will help to ensure its success. As pests begin to infest or nutrient deficiencies become evident, early detection will greatly increase the effectiveness of any necessary intervention strategy.
John C. Fech is a horticulturist with the University of Nebraska-Lincoln and Certified Arborist with the International Society of Arboriculture. The author of two books and more than 400 popular and trade journal articles, he focuses his time on teaching effective landscape maintenance techniques, water conservation, diagnosing turf and ornamental problems, and encouraging effective bilingual communication in the green industry.